Page 52 - Phonebox Magazine November 2015

Does the ‘new’ Swan pass muster?
Nine months on and the word on the street is The ‘New’ Swan is alright. That verdict might not sound much, but we Olney people don’t like change. So
new owner, Andrew, should be very proud of that accolade.
On arrival back in January, the pub became an eatery, much like it’s sister pub, the Rose and Crown in Yardley Hastings. Food first, beer second. But management soon spotted that whilst we like a nibble or two, The Swan is as much about the drink as the food. Since then the pub has settled into an easy balance, with drinkers happily rubbing shoulders with diners.
Ironically this balance seems to have been helped along with the introduction of an all day bar menu. Alongside some decent sandwiches is an interesting range of British Tapas. A mini fish and chips dish (not so mini if truth be known) consists of three cod fingers in light and crispy batter sitting on a pile of chips. A selection of croquettes including cottage pie, cauliflower cheese and smoked haddock are bite sized and delicious. Less British, but just as tasty are hot chorizo, shrimp popcorn and duck spring rolls. They are all priced around £3.95 or less – great value. We way overfed a group of seven for just £10 per head. There is not a lot that is healthy on the menu – it might be nice to have something green amongst the meat and potato. But then, they’re bar snacks – who wants healthy?
The Swan has always been known for great food. After a stint at the Robin Hood, the chef, Pete is back and with him the standard of food. The introduction of a specials board has massively raised the bar, with some really interesting additions to the menu, including at this time of year a good range of game. On a recent visit we had venison bourgignon with mash (£15), a very lovely, rich and warming dish. I, unusually, went veggie with a tomato, chilli and potato tart (£11). This was a sturdy wedge of pastry tart – so much more satisfying than those fiddly individual things. It was perfectly cooked, not a soggy bottom in sight. The chilli was mild but in evidence and the flavours were great. I really liked it. So it’s winning on both fronts, with great food alongside a fabulous pub atmosphere. To be fair, it’s not facing a huge amount of competition with the Bull and the Wine Bar tragically in decline. But in my book it’s passed it’s probationary period with flying colours!
p.foodie
52 Phonebox Magazine
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