Page 53 - Phonebox Magazine December 2016

Co ee shots and pots
You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy coffee and that’s pretty close
Doing the footwork for you, my coffee taster has been out and about to nd the best coffee in the Phonebox catchment area. Admittedly coffee is subjective, so this won’t please everyone.
He enjoys a black Americano, strong without bitterness or being burnt. He particularly likes the ability to adjust strength to suit size and taste by being asked the number of shots required.
In terms of brand the Italians have it nailed with Illy being rst choice, followed by Lavazza. But local roaster Wodehill also have it right (available from Olney Deli).
Best overall
Olney Pancake Parlour (brand unknown). The large Americano with three shots is perfect. The standard at white is a bit milky, but go for a small with two shots and it’s pretty good.
Best of the rest
Swan Inn & Bistro for Illy served in a nice cup. Sandwich Land serve up a good cup of Lavazza. Cafe Roscoe (brand unknown).
Picnic, Newport Pagnell, are on the list as the only ones serving a Certain (a small strong at white) and serving it very well. Unfortunately their Americano was small and weak.
Nearly there
Wildlife Americano – too bitter for personal taste. But their at white is best in Olney.
Special mention
Courtyard Brasserie do a monthly cafetiere blend with tasting notes. It’s specialised and so very subjective. When we went it was way too strong, but the idea is a lovely one.
The chain
We have so many lovely independent coffee houses that we haven’t drunk in Olney or Newport’s Costa. But we have elsewhere. Their milk coffees (the at white and contact) are superb, but their black coffee is very bitter.
1. First of all, you need to make the starter of the panettone. Place the our, milk, egg yolk and yeast in a mixer and mix until your dough starts to form and becomes shiny, then add the butter and continue to mix for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Once that time is up cover your bowl in Cling lm and let it rise for 10-12 hours, until the dough has risen to four times its original size.
2. The next day, place your starter, our and milk in the mixer and mix until the dough becomes shiny again (when I say shiny, it really does become shiny, you’ll be able to tell). Add your sugar and mix just to incorporate. Whilst mixing add in your egg yolks and your butter and continue to mix, then mix in your vanilla essence and honey. After ve minutes, whilst everything is still mixing, add in all your fruit and chocolate. This whole process will take one hour and once you’re done mixing leave your dough to rest for another hour and again it will rise to four times the amount.
3. After resting, turn your dough out on the table and divide it into four, shape it into balls and place it in moulds. It then has to rise for another ve hours in a warm place, if it’s a little cold it may take a little longer to rise.
4. After this second resting period make a cross in the top and put a tablespoon of butter in the cross. Bake at 180 degrees for one hour or you can test with a thermometer which should reach 92 degrees.
5. Once out of the oven the panettones must be hung upside down for 24 hours, this is important so the panettones don’t sink. We usually hang them by piercing large metal kebab skewers through the bottom of the panettone, and rest them on boxes.
After 24 hours your panettone is ready to eat. Please remember to prepare this well in advance if you need it for a special occasion and enjoy.
p.foodie
@helandneil #phoneboxfoodie phoneboxfoodie.wordpress.com
December 2016 | Phonebox Magazine 53
and full of meat. A tiny bit on the cold side and would have bene tted from some chutney, but tasty none-the-less. The main was Con t duck leg, slow cooked in a rich bean and sausage cassoulet. This was superb. The duck was fall- off-the-bone cooked and the stew was smoky, soft and delicious. Served with more French bread to mop up the juices. There was a vegetarian option, but I’m afraid I didn’t notice it! To nish there was apple tart or French cheeses. With a large glass of the Beaujolais Nouveau (which was actually very drinkable) and coffee and chocolates, all for £22.95, this was a rst-rate night. We really don’t eat here often enough. This night reminded me how wrong that is. See you soon Cowper’s.
A very special Special’s Board
A shout out for the food at Olney’s Swan Inn & Bistro, which has really upped its game recently (and it was pretty good to start). In the past month we have been particularly taken with the specials board which is sporting some innovative and delicious dishes. Of particular note, a hearty duck hash starter with a perfectly cooked duck egg atop; a rabbit pasta dish cooked the Italian way, not swimming in sauce, but with a light touch and bags of avour; and the Hungarian goulash, served with bread and a dollop of sour cream – given the chef is Hungarian, this should be good. It is. It’s real cooking by someone who knows how to put avours and ingredients together and understands it’s as much about substance as it is about style. Keep up the good work, and I can’t wait for the next instalment.